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EVERY DAY A POTATO
He plays a shining role in many evening meals, but is also lovingly served in the most chic restaurants: the quintessentially Dutch potato cannot be removed from our plate. What is the story behind the golden yellow tuber? And how does John Spruit, chef at Van der Valk Hotel Nuland 's-Hertogenbosch, prefer to serve it?
SHE SMOLDERS
PHOTOGRAPHY: NOPOINT STUDIOS
STYLING: DESIREE VAN DIJK
CHEF: JOHN SPRUIT
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No product is as everyday and familiar, no ingredient as surprising and versatile; the potato is one of the most beloved crops in the world. Although it is inseparably linked to the Dutch cuisine, the first potato plant was cultivated about ten thousand years ago in South America. It was not until the eighteenth century that we in the Netherlands became acquainted with this earthly favorite and it became an indispensable part of Dutch food culture.
FROM FIELD TO PLATE
The popularity is easy to explain: potatoes are extremely nutritious and thrive well in the damp Dutch climate. This is also known by Peka Kroef: the Dutch family business specializes in the cultivation and processing of the highest quality potatoes. The potatoes at Van der Valk also come directly from the company in Odiliapeel, after they have gone through a careful process from field to plate. It all starts with their own seed potatoes, which are planted in the spring by growers. In the autumn, the potatoes are harvested; some are processed immediately, while the rest is stored. Once in the factory, the washing and sorting process begins, after which the potatoes are further processed - from peeling to cutting and blanching.
IN THE LEADING ROLE
The potato has evolved over the years from a simple bite to a high-level flavor enhancer. John Spruit, chef at Hotel Nuland in 's-Hertogenbosch, also enjoys experimenting with it. "The potato doesn't have a dominant flavor of its own," he says. "That makes it the perfect base to enhance or combine flavors and allow other flavors to excel. With potatoes, you can go in any direction; from a versatile mashed potato and a crispy rösti to a creamy potato gratin, everything is equally flavorful." In winter dishes, the potato often naturally takes on a leading or supporting role, with stew or red cabbage, but at a higher level, the underground tuber is a good partner. John says, "Such as a creamy mousseline with a dollop of caviar, for example. Or with a buttery braised beef, or as pont neuf with Tournedos Rossini. Delicious!"
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SWEET LOVE
Nowadays, the sweet potato is also a favorite, and it is suitable for many cuisines. Although a sweet potato is not actually a potato, but a tuber. John: 'My signature dish with sweet potato this season is a Livar pork cheek, sous-vide cooked in Tom Kha Kai, presented on a sweet potato cream, sweet potato crisps and a crunch of fried onions with red peppers and chives.' Another potato favorite on John's menu this winter? Tortilla de gambas. 'A Mediterranean dish that forms a happy marriage between our spud and the Spanish coast. A surprise on your plate!'